Plus, be sure to use a super enticing treat that your dog will be willing to follow. Or try luring them from a down position instead. Act goofy, clap your hands, or slap your thighs before offering the lure. You can encourage your dog to break their sit by raising your excitement level. When you first start to lure your dog into a stand, they might refuse to leave their sit position, especially if you’ve heavily rewarded sit in the past. Don’t start adding distance until your dog can hold their stand for at least 30 seconds and you’ve introduced distractions like tossing a ball or jogging on the spot. Start with very short intervals, only a second or two, and eliminate any distractions. Whether you lure or capture the stand, after your dog understands the position and its cue, you’re ready to add stay to your training. At that point you can add a hand signal and verbal cue to the behavior. After you’ve captured enough stands, your dog will start offering them to you in hopes of earning a reward. Watch for moments when your dog stands up and be ready to mark and offer a treat. That means clicking, marking, or praising your dog when they do a behavior on their own, then delivering a reward. You can also teach your dog to stand by capturing the behavior. After enough repetitions, your dog should respond to the verbal cue alone.Right before you give your hand signal, say “Stand.” Then click/mark/praise and reward as before. When your dog is reliably following your empty hand, you’ve taught a hand signal – pulling your hand towards you parallel to the ground.Then quickly offer a treat from your other hand. Again, click/mark/praise once your dog is standing. This time use an empty hand to lure your dog to a standing position. After several repetitions, it’s time to fade the lure. Then immediately offer your dog the treat while they are still standing. Mark the moment your dog stands with a clicker, a marker word like “Yes,” or praise.As your dog follows the treat, they will stand up. Hold a treat to your dog’s nose, then pull it straight back away from your dog.The following steps will help you lure your dog into a stand: Now that you know how useful stand can be, it’s time to teach the position. In Rally, the stand position is used for several exercises in the intermediate and higher classes. For example, at the Novice level in Obedience, your dog must stand for an examination to earn their title, and at the Open level, your dog must follow your instructions to switch between sit, down, and stand positions. But stand is also used in Rally and Obedience. You’ve no doubt seen dogs in conformation shows standing still while the judge evaluates their form from nose to tail. Rather than collapsing or trying to escape from the table, you can ask your dog to stand still while the vet checks them over.įinally, stand is helpful for dog sports. And think about how helpful it would be for veterinary exams. Stand can also help during grooming, such as bath time and brushing sessions. Wouldn’t that be easier if your dog stood still for the process? Many of your day-to-day interactions with your dog can run more smoothly if your dog knows what you expect them to do, and stand is no exception. Or how about cleaning your dog’s paws when they come inside on a snowy or rainy day. Imagine putting on your dog’s harness without them wiggling or backing away. The stand position can make your life easier. Read on to learn how and why you should teach your dog to stand. Although you won’t use it as often as sit or down, teaching your dog to stand on cue is more useful than you might think and it’s easy to teach with lure and reward training or capturing the behavior. But there’s another body position you may have overlooked in your training: stand. You’ve probably taught your dog to sit and lie down and to stay in those positions until released.
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